Canvas8 reports are available to Canvas8 subscribers. What follows is an adaptation of the research; the full report can be accessed via the View Report link.
Abstract
On Hamburg's harbor, a Fischbrötchen comes with no fish in it. In a Munich beer hall, the Käsespätzle are made without cheese. And in Berlin, the döner comes vegan too. Germany has a reputation for bratwurst and schnitzel, yet plant-based food is spreading fast, and every city shapes it through its own history, from Berlin's activism to Munich's wealth. Germany's plant-based market is really several city markets, each with its own appetite, and meat still divides the table.
The research, co-authored with Amy Patton, draws on interviews with Arne Ewerbeck, founder of Hamburg's Raging Pig and Kurkuma, Europe's first fully vegan cooking school; Jasmin Suchy, founder of Berlin's zero-waste restaurant FREA; and Lorena Friedhoff of REWE's food tech team.
The findings
Only 23% of Germans now eat meat daily. Per capita meat consumption fell 12% between 2019 and 2023, while production of meat substitutes more than doubled over five years, and the country's plant-based food market is worth nearly €2 billion. Climate is the top reason people give for choosing plant-based food (62%), ahead of animal welfare and health. Plant-based food still provokes strong reactions: after the Vegane Fleischerei won a PETA award, its co-founder said they had received death threats.
In Berlin, a history of squats, punk and protest has made veganism part of the city's identity, and it is ranked the world's second most vegan-friendly city. "Sustainability isn't just a trend here – it's deeply embedded in the urban culture," says Suchy. That makes Berlin a natural test market. REWE opened an all-vegan concept store there, and Friedhoff describes it as "the ideal place to test new concepts that could shape our broader approach to plant-based retail."
Hamburg, Germany's biggest port, is turning its maritime dishes into plant-based versions: Underdocks serves vegan shrimp and fish sticks, and brands like Happy Ocean Foods reflect the city's concern about overfishing. Ewerbeck's Raging Pig goes for realism. "[It] challenges stereotypes of what vegan eating looks like with authentic alternative products that are similar to an animal product, particularly in terms of taste, texture, appearance and frying behaviour," he says.
Purchasing power in Munich is 135% of the national average, and the city's vegan scene leans upmarket, with restaurants like Gratitude redefining plant-based fine dining. Tradition matters just as much: Bodhi, the city's first all-vegan beer hall, serves Bavarian classics without the meat.
What this means for brands
- Cook for the city: Hamburg's vegan kitchens are remaking labskaus, Munich's beer halls serve meatless Bavarian classics, and Berlin has its vegan döner. Grocers and restaurants need a local version of their offer for each city.
- Expect some heat: in Germany, meat is tied up with identity, and going vegan can still read as a provocation. A launch here needs a plan for the backlash.
- Use the capital as a test lab: Berlin is unusually open to new food, and the rest of the country less so. "Some are a bit more cautious when it comes to innovations, especially in rural areas," says Friedhoff. Prove a concept there, then adapt it before rolling it out.
Canvas8 is a behavioural insights agency whose reports are used by brands and agencies worldwide. This page highlights key findings from the report; the full version is available to Canvas8 members.
Alice Sweitzer with Amy Patton
